Opinion: A Local Chef Reflects on ‘Umami’ — the Japanese Essence of Deliciousness ...Middle East

Times of San Diego - News
Opinion: A Local Chef Reflects on ‘Umami’ — the Japanese Essence of Deliciousness
The interior of Matsu restaurant in Oceanside. (Photo courtesy of the restaurant)

Umami is a funny word. It’s often overused — mostly by people (and, unfortunately, some chefs) who don’t fully understand it or how the palate reacts when umami is present and well-balanced in a dish. Umami, in that sense, is not a mix of salt, acid, sweet, and bitter. Some describe it simply as “savory,” though that isn’t entirely accurate either.

Umami literally translates to “the essence of deliciousness.” It’s a reaction that leaves the palate feeling “full” and gives a complete roundness to your taste buds. It stimulates salivation more than other flavors and lingers far longer. 

    What you’re actually tasting is the glutamate in each ingredient. Glutamate is an amino acid and one of the molecular building blocks of protein. It occurs naturally — even in the human body. It has no relation to gluten, though foods containing gluten (like soy sauce) can also have umami. So, don’t confuse the two! 

    Umami isn’t exclusive to Asian cuisine. It’s found — sometimes in high concentrations — in tomatoes, Parmesan cheese, ketchup, ranch dressing, and various other foods across different culinary traditions. 

    At my restaurant Matsu in Oceanside, we focus on the deep traditions of Japanese cuisine and how to build umami into our dishes. The foundation of this lies in soft water and kombu (kelp). Softer water — more acidic due to a higher concentration of hydrogen ions rather than mineral ions — enhances umami, allowing the glutamate in kombu to be more pronounced. This is why umami tends to be more prominent in Japanese cuisine; Japan’s naturally soft water contributes to the effect. To replicate this, we use specialized filtration systems at Matsu to achieve softer water. 

    At times, we substitute water with different juices, shifting the focus away from acidity. Most of our sauces, even soy-based ones, have kombu steeped in at the end. Through experimentation, we’ve found that when temperatures exceed 160 degrees, there is a noticeable loss of umami, diminishing the depth of flavor in our cooking. While we balance salt, acid, bitter, and sweet, we’re equally mindful of preserving umami in our ingredients. 

    In my opinion, the best dashi is one that is never simmered or boiled. Ideally, the kombu should be steeped in cold, soft water overnight, then brought to 155 degrees before adding katsuobushi for no more than one minute, followed by immediate straining. If overnight steeping isn’t an option, another approach is to bring the water to 155 degrees, add katsuobushi for one minute, strain it, then add the kombu to steep for an hour before straining again. While heat helps the kombu bloom, the viscosity won’t be as refined as it would be with a cold overnight steep. 

    For sauces that require heating or simmering for reduction, we add kombu at the end to enhance umami. Once balanced with other seasonings, the umami becomes even more pronounced, allowing the flavors to linger far longer than they would otherwise. Without this step, we wouldn’t be able to extract umami as effectively or provide a more memorable dining experience for our guests.

    At Matsu, temperature is everything. Our goal is to maximize flavor while preserving the integrity of each ingredient. This requires restraint and an understanding that an ingredient is often at its best in its natural state. Our cooking processes highlight each ingredient’s unique qualities while respecting its inherent balance. High temperatures can disrupt this balance, introducing unwanted flavors or stripping away the subtle nuances of certain ingredients. On the other hand, if a dish is too cold, those flavors may never fully express themselves —especially in sauces. 

    Umami demands attention, precision, and understanding. It remains widely misunderstood, but our mission at Matsu is to offer guests a true umami experience, guiding them toward a deeper appreciation of this elusive and essential flavor. 

    William Eick is the chef and owner of Matsu, a modern Japanese restaurant in Oceanside, California, which he opened in the fall of 2021. Before launching Matsu, he helped elevate Oceanside’s food scene as the executive chef of Mission Ave Bar and Grill.

    Read More Details
    Finally We wish PressBee provided you with enough information of ( Opinion: A Local Chef Reflects on ‘Umami’ — the Japanese Essence of Deliciousness )

    Also on site :



    Latest News