A rare treat: My night dining at the ultra-exclusive Viamara ...Middle East

Ever wonder what goes on behind the proverbial velvet ropes of one of South County’s most exclusive clubs? I did, and I found out. The Elwood Club at Pendry Newport Beach made an unprecedented move, briefly opening Viamara, its top-tier restaurant, to the commonfolk. This offers a rare chance for anyone, tax bracket be damned, to experience a taste of luxury.

This unusual display of egalitarianism (especially for the coastal enclave of Newport Beach) started on May 21 and is expected to continue until the end of summer. The exact end date, however, might change.

The club’s goal in opening up Viamara to the public is to attract new members. So, if like me, you’re not able to commit thousands of dollars in membership fees, you can still book a table. (When asked for hard figures, the hotel’s public relations person said, “Membership fees for Elwood Club aren’t publicly listed, reflecting the club’s focus on a more personalized, members-first experience.”) You’ll be treated to swank surroundings and a surprisingly refined and nuanced meal filled with bombast and a hint of down-to-earth charm from its culinary director, Ben Martinek (formerly of Montage Laguna Beach’s Loft and Studio).

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Invited by Viamara, who hosted the entire meal, my colleague and I arrived on a Friday night, ushered past the guitarist playing live music near the entrance for a quieter table outside. Seated on the verdant patio, a handful of members were already dining: a family of four at a corner table, two impeccably dressed ladies next to us, a couple of men at another table, who, in vulgar parlance, could be described as “finance bros,” discussing their capitalist conquests of the week. Nary a hint of snobbery or judgment aimed our way, unlike what you might see in a Hollywood romantic comedy skewering at the upper echelons.

Once we were seated, our affable server handed us the evening’s menu (club members, naturally, receive a different menu featuring additional sushi, American and Italian staples.) Ours honed in on Italian cuisine, featuring fresh takes on classic red-sauce dishes like chicken parm pizza and paccheri alla vodka. After a quick scan, my eyes locked in on the squash blossoms ($18), a favorite of mine whenever spring hits.

These beauties, stuffed with ricotta and that charming supermarket cheese, Bousin, were fried to a golden hue and nestled on fava bean pesto. The fava beans, I learned, were plucked from the Ecology Center, just a few miles south of Newport Beach. (This dish was such a standout that I crowned it one of my favorite things I ate in May.)

Joining the squash blossom course were a half dozen oysters ($22) from the Washington coast, dolloped with limoncello mignonette and whipped tomato water, and the beef carpaccio ($22). The carpaccio was an umami-bomb with egg yolk emulsion, pickled mustard seeds, briny capers and crispy shallots, gilded with tiny edible flowers.

Among the six pasta options, which included a vegetarian white lasagna and spaghetti and meatballs, I chose the cacio e pepe. Despite the deceptively simple dish reaching saturation point on menus in recent years, it remains my favorite of the roman pasta tetralogy, so I had to order it. Packed with cracked black pepper, which I can only assume was toasted beforehand to bring out its peppery punch, this caicio e pepe was the silver-medal winner of the evening. The housemade buccatini had just the right bite: thick and toothsome.

In a welcoming sleight of hand, Martinek adds a slip of citrus to the dish, which, while undetectable, lends a slight acidic lightness I never knew the dish needed. “I add just a few drops of lemon to cut though the richness,” shared Martinek.

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Of the four pizzas, I opted for the calabrese and honey ($22), a vegan pie the size of a personal pan pizza, which did the job. The sourdough crust, I’m told, goes through a 48-hour fermentation process, giving it a pronounced taste and chew.

The “secondi” menu, featuring carnivorous main courses, offers a hearth-roasted branzino ($40), with the tail and head removed, according to Martinek; a chicken picatta ($32) slicked with lemon-caper butter and topped with charred broccolini; and two beef offerings: a filet mignon ($62) and a bone-in prime ribeye with truffle jus ($72). Happy with my pastas and starters, I passed on the meatier fare, despite their obvious allure.

And because no self-respecting members-only club would dare skimp on the high life, a rather opulent selection of Tsar Nicoulai white sturgeon caviars — the “golden reserve” and “crown jewel” varieties — were available for those whose palates (and wallets) learn toward the extravagant, at $210 and $310, respectively.

Now, let’s focus on desserts, which, to my surprise, were another highlight of the evening. While dessert is a must on most menus, it often falls flat, a forgettable conclusion at even some of the most celebrated eateries. Many places simply cannot afford a dedicated pastry chef, so it’s understandable the sweet climax sometimes feels like an afterthought.

Not so at Viamara, where Therea Ebilane is the executive pastry chef. Both her strawberry torte and crème brûlée proved absolute knockouts. The crème brûlée, in particular, was a showstopper, torched to glass-shattering perfection right at our table.

High marks for such dramatic flair! And speaking of flair, Viamara earns extra points for its dessert cart (sometimes called “sweet trolleys”), positioned invitingly near the entrance. It’s a delightful nod to the fine-dining venues of yesteryear, elevating the entire experience.

Should you want to splurge to see how the other half (one percent?) sup, consider this a limited-time pass to see what it’s all about, all without having to commit to the gilded cage. Despite the restaurant’s vaulted status (Pendry Newport Beach is a stone’s throw from Fashion Island), getting the chance to taste Martinek’s creativity and gastronomic care is, if you can swing it, worth whatever damage hits your pocketbook.

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Find it: Located at Pendry Newport Beach, 690 Newport Center Drive, Newport Beach; 949-688-8004, www.pendry.com/newport-beach/dining

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