“For me, Puglia is the essence of everything I crave in summer—sun that warms the skin and soul, meals that stretch into the night and landscapes so timeless they make you forget your phone,” says Livio Colapinto. He's an Apulian-born Italian tour operator and founder of The Genuine Experience, a culinary tour provider known for guiding everyone from Eli Zabar to Andrew Zimmern on authentic food adventures across Italy and its islands.
Growing up weaving through olive groves and sailing the Salento coastline, Livio knows Puglia like the back of his hand, saying it isn’t just a place but rather a feeling. "One that lingers in the scent of grilled dinners shared with friends, in the hush of early morning runs along the beach and in the softness of evening breezes that feel like they belong in a dream.”
With deep local roots and a heart full of nostalgia, Colapinto offers some of his best recommendations for experiencing Italy’s “boot region” like a true Apulian.
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When to Go
For Colapinto, Puglia is at its most magical during the shoulder seasons—April through June and September through October—when the days are warm, the crowds are thin and the light has a golden, cinematic quality. “These months offer ideal weather and fewer crowds,” he says, making it the perfect time to pack your bags for the boot and explore the region's beaches, hill towns and olive groves at a slower, more soulful pace.
That said, summer in Puglia (June through August) has its own sun-soaked charm, with long, hot days and a festive buzz as both Italians and international travelers descend on the region. Just be prepared for packed beaches and high demand at hotels and restaurants.
Although Italy's winter months align with the states, from December through February, don’t be surprised to see someone taking a brisk dip in January. Many locals swim year-round—even in winter—thanks to the Adriatic’s relatively mild coastal climate.
Getting There
Traveling to Puglia has never been easier, given the new nonstop NEOS flights from New York City’s JFK Airport to Bari Karol Wojtyła Airport (BRI), the capital of Puglia.
Flights operate once a week, every Tuesday, offering a direct and seamless route that will have you sipping spritzes in the heart of southern Italy’s sun-drenched coast in under nine hours.
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Once in Puglia, Colapinto highly recommends renting a car to discover the boot on your own terms—from sleepy inland villages and vineyard-dotted backroads to secluded beaches and dramatic seaside cliffs. "The freedom to explore at your own pace is essential in a region where the best moments often happen off the beaten path," he says.
Where to Stay in Puglia
Puglia offers a range of stays that reflect the region’s laid-back charm and rich character. You’ll find everything from intimate boutique masserias—historic farmhouses turned into cozy guesthouses—to more luxurious coastal hotels with all the amenities.
Masseria Torre Maizza (Savelletri)
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Masseria Torre Maizza, a Rocco Forte hotel, is located in one of the most picturesque and sought-after spots on the Italian Adriatic coast. Set within a restored 16th-century farmhouse, it offers the perfect blend of authenticity and comfort—think whitewashed walls, vaulted ceilings and peaceful olive groves. This masseria has everything you need for a relaxing stay: a beautiful pool, a laid-back restaurant serving local dishes and easy access to both countryside and coast. It’s a true slice of Puglian life with just the right touch of modern ease.
La Peschiera (Capitolo)
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For a serene seaside escape, La Peschiera offers an intimate retreat with just 13 rooms, each featuring private terraces that open directly onto the sea. Housed in a former Bourbon-era fish hatchery, this boutique hotel seamlessly blends rustic charm with modern comforts. Unwind by the hotel's private beach, or take a dip in one of its seven pools. The on-site Saleblu Restaurant serves fresh seafood and local specialties, providing a true taste of Apulian cuisine.
Il Suq (Lecce)
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For those who want to forgo the hotel route in lieu of something more intimate, this Apulian Airbnb is a beautifully curated retreat in the heart of Lecce. With baroque charm, handcrafted details and a private jacuzzi, Il Suq offers a sensory, design-forward stay dripping in romantic touches.
The Best Apulian Restaurants
Dining in Puglia is all about simplicity and seasonality. From family-run trattorias to countryside masserie, the region’s restaurants serve up rustic dishes like orecchiette with turnip greens, freshly caught seafood and wood-fired focaccia.
Terranima (Bari)
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When in Puglia, experiencing pasta like nonna makes is a must. “Puglia is known for its little ear-shaped pasta called orecchiette, often served with sausage and broccoli rabe,” explains Colapinto. “The best place for this specialty is Terranima in Bari."
Il Cortiletto (Speziale di Fasano)
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Tucked inside a whitewashed courtyard, Il Cortiletto is a romantic spot that feels like dining in a secret garden, Colapinto says. "Seasonal dishes and traditional recipes like grano arso pasta with burrata and anchovies are made with love, and the charming outdoor seating is lit by lanterns and candlelight."
Raparossa (Pezze di Greco)
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Colapinto can't rave enough about Raparossa, a beautifully restored masseria turned countryside restaurant with warm lights, rustic stone walls and open-air dining under fig trees. "It’s a local favorite for slow dinners featuring creative Apulian dishes—don’t miss their signature vegan dishes with wild herbs and excellent red wine selection," he shares.
La Locanda di Martumè (Fasano)
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Chic but relaxed, La Locanda di Martumèis one of the oldest trattorias in Fasano and one that Colapinto credits with a traditional interior, with a cozy, refined ambiance and a short, well-curated menu that changes with the seasons. "The octopus with potatoes and black olives is a standout, and their homemade desserts are worth saving room for."
Da Silvè (Fasano)
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Colapinto is partial to the authentic, laid-back vibes of Da Silvè—and all about good food and good wine. "The ambiance is casual but intimate, perfect for couples who want substance over flash. Their grilled meats and stuffed eggplant are local specialties, and the wine list highlights nearby producers," he says.
Masseria Il Frantoio (Ostuni)
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"Tucked between the olive trees near Ostuni, Masseria Il Frantoio is one of Puglia’s most soulful culinary experiences," explains Colapinto. "The slow, multi-course dinner under twinkling lights feels both elegant and deeply rooted in tradition—everything is grown or foraged on-site."
Masseria Barbera (Minervino Murge)
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An agriturismo trattoria nestled in vineyards and olive groves, Colapinto frequents Masseria Barbera for authentic farm-to-table fare with homemade antipasti, fresh pastas like strascinati with cime di rapa and meats raised on site. "Go for lunch if staying nearby," he advises.
Due Camini (Savelletri)
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While it’s within the exquisite hotel grounds of Borgo Egnazia, Due Camini is in a league of its own. "The setting is magical—think candlelit tables, vaulted stone ceilings and views into the open kitchen," says Colapinto. "Chef Domingo Schingaro creates sophisticated interpretations of local cuisine, such as amberjack with almond and lemon, all sourced from the region’s best. A true culinary experience for a special occasion—it’s been Michelin-starred for six years."
Al Trabucco da Mimì (Peschici)
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Over in Gargano, Colapinto makes it a point to pay his respects to the Ottaviano family, who have run the locals-loved Al Trabucco da Mimì in Baia San Nicola for three generations. "A peaceful, family-oriented bay with golden sands and gentle waves, this place is less about the party, more about reconnecting with nature and simple pleasures," he says. "A must-visit dining experience on a historic fishing pier—come for lunch or sunset dinner—the spaghetti alla trabuccolara (with local seafood) and panoramic views are unforgettable."
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Locals-Loved Lidos
With pristine stretches of sand as far as the eye can see and freshly caught seafood being pulled out of the waters nearby, idling the day away at a lido (beach club) is a favored pastime in Puglia.
Lido Bambù (Monopoli)
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In Fasano, Colapinto is partial to Lido Bambù, the beach club of Masseria Torre Maizza. “It strikes the perfect balance between relaxed and refined,” he says, pointing to its convivial setup, private cabanas and fresh seafood prepared by Chef Fulvio Pierangelini. “It’s where you come to truly unwind.” His go-to order? The grilled seabass or the burrata-topped salad, paired with a glass of local Negroamaro rosé. “It’s festive but easygoing,” he adds, “ideal for a celebratory day by the sea.”
Pettolecchia Il Lido (Savelletri)
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Another Colapinto-approved pick? Pettolecchia Il Lido in Savelletri. "This beach club is pure understated elegance—think natural wood cabanas, impeccable service and a tranquil atmosphere, he says. "Their crudo di mare (raw seafood platter) or tomato and cucumber salad paired with a glass of Falanghina is a true taste of the Adriatic."
Cala Masciola (Savelletri)
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Also in Savelletri, Colapinto favors Cala Masciola, the private beach club of Borgo Egnazia. "It's rustic-chic with a gourmet twist," he shares, and is known for its grilled octopus and views that glow pink at sunset. "A sublime spot to sip an Aperol Spritz and unwind."
Lido Cala Rosa (Mattinatella)
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Looking for something off the beaten path? "This cove feels like a secret," says Colapinto, of Cala Rosa, a restaurant and beach club that serves fresh orecchiette with seafood and grilled catch of the day. "It's perfect for a slow, coastal lunch under the olive trees."
Lido Zen (Gallipoli)
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Trendy and lively, ideal for late afternoons with cocktails and DJ sets, according to Colapinto. "Grab a mojito salentino (with mint grown right on the beach) and join the sunset dance," he suggests.
Spiaggia Lunga (Vieste)
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For more beach, less club and an active vibe, Colapinto directs his clients to Spiaggia Lunga in Vieste. "It's beloved by surfers and kiteboarders," he says. "Rent a board, take a lesson, then recharge with panzerotti (fried dough filled with mozzarella and tomato) from a local kiosk."
Puglia is full of one-of-a-kind escapes that lie just beyond the guidebooks. If you’re looking to experience the region like a local, here are a few of Colapinto's favorites you shouldn’t miss.
Caffè Tripoli (Martina Franca)
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"Start your day with a stroll through the elegant Baroque heart of Martina Franca," suggests Colapinto, "and sit down for a coffee at the iconic Caffè Tripoli in Piazza Maria Immacolata—an institution as charming as the square itself."
Macelleria Romanelli (Martina Franca)
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Just steps away, Macelleria Romanelli is a butcher shop Colapinto loves for its house-cured meats and exceptional cuts. "Pick up a few specialties—think bombette pugliesi and local sausages—and enjoy a cozy DIY dinner at home."
Mercatino di Maglie (Lecce)
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"If you're visiting during the month of August, the Mercatino del Gusto in Maglie is an immersive evening event with food stalls, wine tastings and music under the stars," says Colapinto. "It’s not a tourist trap—it’s where locals gather, taste and celebrate."
Trulli (Alberobello)
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A must-see in Puglia, Alberobello is famous for its trulli—whitewashed, cone-roofed stone houses that look straight out of a fairytale. These UNESCO-listed buildings date back to the 14th century and are unique to this region. Wander the narrow lanes of the Rione Monti district, where hundreds of trulli cluster together and step inside some that have been converted into shops, cafés or even tiny museums.
Masseria Narducci (Fasano)
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“Many masserias offer cooking classes that go far beyond recipes—they provide a true immersion into the rhythms and traditions of rural Puglia,” says Colapinto. “You’ll learn to knead, roll, and taste just as generations before you have, guided by locals who share stories as rich as the food itself.”
Masseria Narducci, a luxury boutique farmstead dating back to the 18th century, is renowned for these authentic culinary experiences. Meanwhile, Masseria Torre Maizzainvites guests on a hands-on journey through Apulia’s culinary heritage, focusing on regional specialties and fresh, local ingredients. They also offer excursions to the nearby port to select the freshest seafood for your cooking adventure.
I Giardini di Pomona
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The Gardens of Pomona is a magical, little-known botanical conservatory near Cisternino with one of the world’s largest collections of fig varieties. "Wander the lush gardens hand in hand, sampling different fruits in season—it’s an unexpectedly romantic, slow-paced experience that feels like a secret," shares Colapinto.
Panificio Santa Rita
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For the ultimate Apulian street food, Colapinto says a trek to Bari at the heel of the boot is worth the trip, for the focaccia at Bari's Panificio Santa Rita alone.
Da Tuccino
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If you're in search of fresh-caught seafood and gorgeous beaches, Colapinto says to head to Polignano a Mare and visit Da Tuccino. "An iconic seafood destination with panoramic Adriatic views that's legendary for raw fish carpaccios, black-ink orecchiette with clams and shrimp and potato-crusted sea bass," he says. "Elevated, yet simple and ingredient-forward."
Guttarolo
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Colapinto tells his wine lovers to travel inland to the town of Gioia del Colle and visit the Guttarolo vineyard, a standout in Puglia’s natural wine scene. Nestled among limestone hills, this small, family-run winery produces expressive, organic wines. A tasting here offers not just exceptional pours, but also a deep dive into the terroir and philosophy behind one of the region’s most exciting winemakers.
Lula - Pane e Dessert
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While you're in Trani, don't miss Lula for world-class desserts, says Colapinto. "Luca Lacalamita, formerly head pastry chef at Enoteca Pinchiorri and alumni of El Bulli and Osteria Francescana, returned to Trani to open Lula—a culinary lab and bakery where he works with ancient grains and biodiverse local flours. Stunning pastries, bread and desserts."
Caseificio Garofalo (Bitonto)
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Make a stop in the town of Bitonto and visit Caseificio Garofalo, a family-owned cheesemaker crafting fresh, flavorful cheeses using traditional methods. “Their burrata is outrageous—still warm sometimes when you get it,” says Colapinto.
Forno Antico Carlucci (Bitonto)
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This communal oven, dating back to 1260, is still used by locals to bake focacce, pasta al forno and rustic loaves. “A communal oven that’s been working since the Middle Ages—Forno Antico Carlucci is a living piece of food history,” says Colapinto. “You smell the bread a block away.”
I Vizi degli Angeli - Laboratorio di Gelateria Artigianale (Matera)
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Head inland to the stunning cave town of Matera and make a stop at I Vizi degli Angeli Laboratorio di Gelateria Artigianale, a beloved local spot known for its inventive, all-natural flavors. “They do this ricotta and fig gelato that should be illegal,” Colapinto jokes.
Bernardi (Grottaglie)
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In the ceramic town of Grottaglie, the Bernardi chocolate factory crafts small-batch confections using local ingredients. “This is the only chocolate I bring back in bulk,” says Colapinto. “Their dark chocolate with almonds and olive oil is unreal.”
Macelleria Cipriani (Terlizzi)
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Macelleria Cipriani is a butcher shop where you choose your cut and have it grilled on the spot. “This traditional ‘butcher-dines’ model is a rustic, local gem,” says Colapinto. “It’s also where my grandmother used to buy meat for Sunday ragù. I’ve brought chefs here over the years, and their reactions are always the same—total awe.”
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