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“Grown-Up Bars”
By Bill Smith
Bowbarr, on West Rosemary Street, closed after fifteen years. It had been a key spot on the list of “grown-up” bars that I’d been collecting since my retirement in 2019. Let me explain.
I live alone and when I was working full-time, it was a relief to come home at night to a calm, quiet house. Living in a calm, quiet house all the time is a different thing entirely. I love Chapel Hill, the University and its mobs of students raising hell when they are not studying. On North Columbia Street, I’m the only homeowner in a sea of rentals. I love my rambunctious neighbors. But I don’t do shots of Jägermeister anymore, so where should I go?
I’m very social and I soon realized I needed hangouts. I didn’t want to be that old guy sitting at the end of a bar in an otherwise empty beer hall. This is where Bowbarr and places of its ilk came into play. These are places for people like me in this town. Each has its own quirks and character. None are in restaurants. Each lends itself to a different need.
Bowbarr was an artist’s hangout. Most of the artists had to have day jobs too, but they were unconventional working people. The bar hosted events like poetry readings from time to time and it was sort of an unofficial headquarters for people who had come on food tours with me to Mexico. I miss it, but happily, it was not our only choice. Right down the block and around the corner on Graham Street is Lapin Bleu — which is, among other things, a jazz bar. Shows start at 5:00 in the afternoon and a good part of the clientele is sixty and older. On Friday Danny Grewen, a sophisticated musician, plays his trombone and sings with other jazz musicians. Until recently, it was mostly with piano player Robert Griffin. Robert (aka Griffanzo) is moving France soon, but Danny intends to continue these shows. Audiences are generally attentive and applaud after each solo.
I’ve always preferred to watch Tar Heel basketball in bars. The Flying Burrito was my spot for years, but after it closed, I found myself in the wilderness for a while. Then I landed at Orange County Social Club and I am content. They have a giant screen they pull down at game time and the best seats are reserved for regulars. This is also a working person’s bar. People getting off shifts at the hospital, academics, schoolteachers and construction workers all make up parts of the crowd. OCSC, as it’s known, also sponsors art events and fundraisers. It has a smoking area outside. You’re allowed to bring in food from neighborhood restaurants if you want supper while you watch the game. They also have a coffee pot for those weird morning matches that sometimes show up at tournament time.
When you feel the need for something a little swanky, there is The Crunkleton on West Franklin Street. You don’t have to dress up, but you might want to. There is polished wood, mirrors, paneling, hunting trophies and low lighting. And a remarkable collection of whiskies served by splendid bartenders. In good weather, they throw open the big front windows and it’s like having a drink on the front porch. In fairness, I have to say The Crunkleton isn’t entirely full of grown-ups, but it’s more reserved than a lot of places toward the center of downtown.
I’ll finish up for now with a place that’s more than just a bar, The Cat’s Cradle. (full disclosure: years ago, I was one of the owners, so I’m especially partial here.) It is, of course, a music club — and a famous one at that. It is, remarkably, fifty-six years old this year. It went from just beer to full bar service several years ago. Do grown-ups go there? A lot. I’m probably there at least once a week these days. When The Gang of Four was there in April, there were people with canes and wheelchairs in the audience. That’s our town.
Bill provided some photos from some of his favorite haunts around town:
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