The critically acclaimed Galit restaurant in Lincoln Park has a new sibling, right next door. And our Food Guy says it’s quite a departure from the Middle Eastern-focused tasting menu of its big brother
This new café is almost a polar opposite of its predecessor. No tasting menu, no reservations and a renewed emphasis on its pastry program. In essence, lots of new ideas in a more casual environment, and a dual personality that changes throughout the day.
Where Galit has Michelin stars, a James Beard Award-winning Chef and a tasting menu format rooted in the cuisine from the Middle East – including the best pita-hummus combo in the city, their new, next door sibling Café Yaya is…
“Just a lot more casual, neighborhood vibes is kind of what we were going for,” said Mary Eder-McClure, the Head Baker.
Eder-McClure oversees everything that’s baked – mainly pastries – which start early each morning in a sort of coffeeshop vibe. Baklava buns, green bean casserole stuffed challah and Cuban Croissants. Tempting apple galettes and savory stuffed bureka.
“We do ours with potato, dill, scallions; with everything bagel spice on top,” she said.
Sweet kouign-amann and chocolate croissants, but also crumbly coffeecake too. Closed in the afternoon, they reopen at five o’clock for dinner.
“So this restaurant is sort of the answer to all the things that we would like to do that we can’t do at galit,” said Chef and Co-owner Zachary Engel.
Like Yaya fries. “They’re very big,” he said. Blanched, fried and frozen; then fried two more times to make them extra crispy. “Covered in kombu and with a green garlic labneh ranch.” Try them with a lamb burger.
“So we take mustard and mix it with a condiment called amba – which is a fermented green curried mango – the za’atar mayo is just an aioli where we add za’atar and preserved lemon into it,” said Engel.
New Orleans-style fried green tomatoes with shrimp remoulade would be right at home in the Big Easy.
“Well I lived there for a good portion of my life before I moved to Chicago. I tried to do it the way that I think it’s supposed to be done in the classic Uptown New Orleans style,” he said.
There’s a beautiful half chicken with a vibrant green salad, as well as roasted oysters, which have a Cajun-French accent.
“We take a compound butter with shallot, vinegar and tarragon, some cooked tasso ham – which is a cajun style spiced ham – bake it in the oven, and then we put some double crème brie cheese on top…”said Engel.
Roasted again until the cheese melts and bubbles…finished simply. “Spritz of lemon and some herbs,” he said.
Engel says the bistro approach means guests can pop in any time of week without much notice.
“We’d be thrilled if people came in one night, a glass of wine and some snacks with some friends, and then later in the week came in for a bigger meal with a larger party,” he said.
The establishment also offers a delicious leek gratin with a thoughtful wine list and handful of memorable cocktails.
Café Yaya
2431 N. Lincoln Ave.
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