Eggs rule at this breakfast hot spot in Long Beach ...Middle East

Egg prices are high out there, thanks in part to hen houses being decimated by bird flu … and in part to good old-fashioned greed — aka “fluctuations in the market.” Whatever you choose to believe, we’re not about to give up our eggs.

In my life, I’ve had eggs in one form or another for breakfast, lunch and dinner. I’ve had them as a between-meal snack. I’ve packed them for camping trips. I’ve nibbled on hard-boilers driving cross-country.

They may be the most versatile food at the supermarket, and a newish chain called EggBred is all about eggs. They’re in just about every dish on the menu, mostly scrambled, but also over-easy and poached.

One thing you won’t find: the humble, home-from-school favorite egg sandwich.

Egg sandwiches date back to the early 1900s in Britain, where the eggs were hard-boiled and sliced. They grew in popularity during World War I, when troops would carry them into battle. With the addition of mayonnaise and pickle relish, egg salad was a dish that came to define the cooking of the 1950s; my several copies of “The Joy of Cooking” are annotated with numerous notes on additional ingredients. Bacon works exceedingly well.

But EggBred is not where you go for a traditional egg salad sandwich, good as it may be. It’s where we go for scrambled eggs and over-easy eggs, served in toasted milk buns, with any number of other ingredients. Eating here made me feel like an 8-year-old in my mother’s kitchen, wolfing down an egg sandwich before running back to my school three blocks away.

EggBred has branches in La Habra, Huntington Beach, Brea, Whittier, Garden Grove, Chino Hills — and right here in the middle of downtown Long Beach, on the Alamitos Avenue side of an Ocean Boulevard office tower, with tables inside and out.

You order at a counter. Then you either settle into a functional chair and table, or stand at the counter, watching the cooks break and scramble and fry eggs in heroic numbers. There may be an egg shortage at supermarkets, but at EggBred, eggs are available in abundance. I do hope it stays that way.

This is one of those high concepts where a restaurant takes something we know well and turns it into something so much better than it’s ever been before. (Funny as it is, the same thing has been done with deviled eggs, which have gone from generic brunch chow, to a steakhouse wonderment with bacon and caviar!) The menu here begins with breakfast sandwiches, which is a lovely way to start the day, especially since EggBred opens at 7 every morning.

And so, we have a sandwich of applewood smoked bacon, properly crispy, along with sharp cheddar, a smoked paprika spread on the milk bun, roasted pepper chimichurri and an egg over medium — a sandwich to get your engine purring in the a.m.

The same ingredients are found in variations where the bacon is replaced by a breakfast sausage made of real meat, or whatever Impossible brand meat is. And in a version with a pork chorizo patty. And in one with no meat at all, but with soft scrambled eggs and caramelized onions. Which beats a pile of IHOP pancakes any day.

EggBred isn’t open for dinner, closing lunch service at 2 p.m. And that’s a pity, for the lunch sandwiches would make a fine late-night meal.

There’s a cheeseburger with an over-easy egg. Which is fairly mundane compared to the joy of the Nashville Hottie — crispy breaded chicken breast with cider vinegar slaw and “county fair” pickles, on a milk bun as ever.

If you want to get fancier, there’s a sandwich with a ribeye steak and arugula. And a burger with a white truffle spread and smoked jalapeño ketchup. Crispy fried onions, too. Lots going on there.

Why the sandwich of Black Forest ham, truffle dressed arugula and Hollandaise is called a Ben Franklin is a mystery to me. And there’s some real edge pushing when it comes to the “Not Sandwich” of breakfast poutine. Poutine is a French-Canadian mess of french fries, cheese curds and gravy. The poutine here is beer-battered potatoes, popcorn chicken, a poached egg, cheddar cheese, chimichurri, chives and sausage gravy. It’s a culinary third cousin of the original.

More Merrill: 5 of the best vegan and vegetarian restaurants in the Long Beach area

You can “Build a Benny” of bacon, sausage, chorizo, ribeye or Impossible meat with two not impossible eggs and Hollandaise on an English muffin. There’s also an assortment of burritos, both standard issue and “loaded” — ribeye steak and chorizo chili, fried chicken and sausage gravy. Combos not found anywhere else.

At the end of the menu, there’s a mixed-berry cheesecake waffle. Which feels as if it meandered in from another restaurant. EggBred isn’t about sweet, it’s about savory. It’s also about maximizing your protein intake … on a toasted milk bun.

Merrill Shindler is a Los Angeles-based freelance dining critic. Email [email protected].

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