The more backpacking changes, the more it stays the same ...Middle East

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The more backpacking changes, the more it stays the same
Sign up to Simon Calder’s free travel email for expert advice and money-saving discounts Get Simon Calder’s Travel email New Year’s Day, 1988: bienvenido a Guatemala and welcome to chaos. Start the year with a tropical adventure: always a good plan. In that distant decade of Thatcher, Wham! and lax rules when flying, I smoked my way across to Miami on Virgin Atlantic. There I connected to now-defunct Eastern Airlines for the two-hour hop to a new and bewildering world. First contact: the dysfunctional and labyrinthine La Aurora airport on the outskirts of Guatemala City. Rather than the traveller choosing between “red” and “green” channels at customs, arrivals were invited to press

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