In contrast, this luxury-loving imposter tackles just 40 miles (some by bus), fuelled by hot tubs, fish and chips, and samphire-scented hand cream. From cliff-hugging trails and Cornish pasties to barefoot beach walks and indulgent dinners, it’s a long-weekend escape that proves you don’t have to rough it to feel the magic of the coast.
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I’ve only got a long weekend, so have lasered in on a section in Cornwall that bulges like a badly stuffed backpack with clifftop drama, sheep-nibbled meadows, irresistibly paddle-able beaches… and great public transport links for if/when I need to bale out of a walk and head back to the Watergate Bay Hotel (watergatebay.co.uk) for a sole-soothing spell in the sunset-view hot-tub and a Huckaback IPA.
In fact, it’s an effort to get off public transport. The train from London (gwr.com) arcs within splashing distance of the sea in places, with Panavision views through those widescreen windows, like a Coast Path walk for couch-potatoes , and I’m tempted to stay on to the end of the line. Instead, a ten-minute taxi from Newquay gets me to Watergate Bay, where the eponymous hotel sits about six feet from the sand.
Another 40 (now fully fuelled) minutes get me to Bedruthan Steps, a National Trust beauty spot where jagged sandstone stacks scattered offshore are said to be a giant’s stepping stones, but look more like he’s spat out a pack of half-chewed Mountain Bites or whatever it is giants snack on. I watch a sunset rich enough to scarlet not just the sky but the ocean too, then taxi back to base to see its long afterglow haunt the horizon for another half-hour.
My feet get damp and sandy, but dry off in minutes under a hot May sun, so I shortcut along the beaches of Porth, Tolcarne, Towan, Fistral and Crantock, too – rushing now to make it across Gannel Estuary at low tide, or it’ll be more than my feet that gets wet.
I stop there for a vegan pasty “so good it will turn you vegan!”, says the lady who sells it to me (and it really might have been, if the sausage roll I got alongside it wasn’t even better).
Morning finds me on a track that heaves and plunges along cliffs speckled with thrift and sea campion, swooping past lighthouses, lifeboat stations, kestrel-heavy headlands and secret coves of improbable aquamarine. The Path hugs the cliff edge – and occasionally my soul – all the way into Padstow, where I hit Rick Stein’s Fish & Chips (rickstein.com/steins-fish-and-chips).
But next morning my calves are having none of that. Instead I spend a morning on (actually, mostly off) a surfboard, hired from Wavehunters, just ten mercifully short steps from the hotel (wavehunters.co.uk). I’ll catch up with Raynor and Moth Winn another day.
The Salt Path is out now in cinemas on Friday 30th May 2025.
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