Everyone has their opinion on how to make a perfectly boiled egg—is it boiled from a cold start, hot start, steamed, pressure-cooked, or sous vide? This argument will rage all the more feverishly as periodic cooking enters the fray. According to science, periodic cooking yields the perfect boiled egg. The test required two pots of water at different temperatures, a two-minute timer, a notepad, and 32 minutes of uninterrupted focus. I must admit, the results were fantastic—but I’d never do it again.
What is periodic cooking?
Periodic cooking in regards to boiled eggs is a process where the cooking temperature alternates, in this case from boiling water (212°F) to warm water (86°F), over the course of 32 minutes until the white and the yolk proteins cook to their individual state of perfection. No overcooked rubbery whites or dusty yolks. Instead, a yolk that is just-gelled across the entire orb, and a white that is set, but not gummy.
Credit: Allie Chanthorn ReinmannHow to make the perfect boiled egg
Set up two pots of water. Bring the smaller one up to boiling. This pot will be boiling for the entire time. Fill a second, larger pot up about halfway with warm water.
Credit: Allie Chanthorn ReinmannIf you want to try this method at home, here are some helpful tips:
You’ll need a thermometer. A probe thermometer (I used the Thermapen One) or a low temperature clip-on thermometer. To me, 86°F water feels just pleasantly warm to someone who has cold hands.
Credit: Allie Chanthorn ReinmannHave a kettle of hot water nearby. Since you’ll be boiling that smaller pot of water for a half hour, be prepared for the water level to decrease. If you see the egg poking above the surface, top up the boiling water when the egg is in the warm water pot.
Keep a notepad. Eight back-and-forths is a trap: You’re definitely going to forget what round you’re on unless you keep a tally. I did a tally mark every time I put the egg in the warm water, signaling the completion of one cycle.
Is the perfect boiled egg worth it?
Credit: Allie Chanthorn ReinmannI made three eggs so I could taste them all side by side. Crucially, the instructions from Science News do not indicate if the egg should be a fridge-cold or room temperature egg, so I did both. As a control, I made a steamed egg the way I normally do to get a set yolk.
The yolk of the periodically cooked egg was markedly different from other boiled egg yolks I’ve eaten. So if you’re a big yolk connoisseur, you may like this. It’s velvety and has a consistent texture throughout. Traditional-method boiling yields egg yolks that have a less cooked center and become more cooked closer to the white.
The white was delicate and easy to bite through, but I don’t think boiling produces very rubbery whites anyway, so the difference is rather subtle. I only noticed because I tasted the eggs side by side. Since “perfect” is in the belly of the beholder, I’ll likely be sticking with my usual fried and scrambled.
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