I tried 21 novelty Easter eggs and there was one clear winner ...Middle East

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They were the carrot dangling for children taken to church three times in one week; the release after an abstemious Lent; the tin foil joy hidden somewhere in an otherwise grey garden; the opportunity for, in a word, fun.

Here is my verdict – including a winner, second, and third place – as tasted alphabetically in one frenetic afternoon.

2/5

ASDA Patch the Bunny (milk chocolate) + Charli the chick (white chocolate), £4.74 each

A fun riff on a bunny shape, and charming. The white chocolate was especially sweet but both were thick and snappy. Nothing to write home about but great for kids who want to go mental for a bit.

1/5

Chococo Milk Chocolate Honeycombe Easter Egg, £16.50

The egg itself was beautiful and the chocolate delightful. Great snap, wonderful, slightly fruity and nutty flavour, lined with hunks of crisp honeycomb. Novelty-wise I was delighted by the craterous interior; almost like the inside of a geode. This was one that I had my eye on and it didn’t disappoint.

4.75/5

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Co-op Irresistible Marbled Millionaires Egg, £7

Marbled chocolate can be hit or miss and this one, which looks a bit like an alien’s egg, was a hit. The chocolate was pretty good and the dark and white blend meant it was not overwhelming. The fudge didn’t add anything remarkable but the pieces that are more biscuit-heavy were lovely.

3.5/5

THIRD PLACE

Hotel Chocolat Lamb and Mint Chocolate Easter Sandwich, £11.95

Mint chocolate can be quite hit and miss but this was spot on with 50 per cent chocolate that verged on the darker end, and a mint taste that was strong but not overpowering. This was a podium finisher.

3/5

Lidl’s Mister Choc Popcorn Inclusion Egg, £5.99

Not everything that is embedded in a chocolate egg this year enhances the experience, but I was impressed with this. The textural contrast is almost obnoxiously chaotic (although the popcorn is only on one side) and the element of savouriness worked well.

1/5

M&S Dippy Whippy Loaded Egg, £12

The same is true for the Dippy Whippy Loaded Egg. This has mallow and orange mini whips, orange speckled eggs, and orange jelly pieces which would either fall off or smear your fingers with a white, gelatinous and orange goo. Not an enjoyable experience.

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3.5/5

Melt Chocolate Blueberry and Raspberry Breton egg, £69.95

This is the big dog: the most showy, most expensive, and ticks every novelty box; made of concentric circles in alternating flavours. But especially given the price this was disappointing. The light slab is a white chocolate and yoghurt blend that unfortunately doesn’t work: the berry flavour is sharp and tart, and almost savoury; exacerbated by the yoghurt tang. The chocolate that eventually follows is sweet and lacklustre in comparison. The dark chocolate is divine – naturally fruity and with a great cocoa density without being too rich. But whether they work together is hard to know – the slabs are so dense it would crack your teeth to bite both at once.

2/5

Tesco Raisin and Biscuit egg, £10

I am a raisin apologist and I think it’s brave for Tesco to champion such a maligned dried fruit in their egg. But the raisin and biscuit is so scarce that the lovers will feel denied and the haters will avoid it nonetheless. Completely quotidian, even if you’re a raisinhead.

1/5

Waitrose Raspberry Ribbon Egg, £8

Nicer than the toffee egg but still unremarkable. My back teeth were left ringing like a tuning fork from the sweetness and there was no raspberry flavour at all.

3.75/5

SECOND PLACE 

Waitrose No. 1 The Cracking Pistachio Easter Egg, £17

Despite being 20 eggs in by the time I get to this, I truly could not stop eating this pistachio interior – it was light and crunchy with a really strong pistachio flavour. The white chocolate complimented rather than dominated although I was not convinced by the blonde chocolate shell, as the toastiness feels sickly rather than complex. However, the centre shone enough for me to move past that. Worth the hype. This egg was centre stage last year and in my opinion should still be (almost) at the top.

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