If you just read that last part and started shaking your head because your paint projects always turn out terribly—patchy, or with visible sheen or brush strokes, or a final color that doesn’t seem to match what you chose in the store at all—the cause probably isn’t your work ethic, or an evil spirit inhabiting your house. The problem probably lies in your prep work. If all you’re doing before you start slapping paint on the walls is applying some painter’s tape and covering the furniture, the chances that the final paint job will look terrible are actually pretty high. Here are all the things you should take into account before you dip that brush.
Your home is probably climate controlled, so painting inside even during extreme weather is certainly possible—just make sure the temperature is between 50 and 90 degrees and the humidity levels are between 40 and 60%.
Prep the walls
Cleaning walls with a dry microfiber cloth followed by warm water and a sponge is usually sufficient, unless your walls are really dirty. If you’re worried about it, add a small amount of dish washing liquid or trisodium phosphate (if your walls are greasy and very dirty)—but avoid colored soaps that might leave a tint behind.
Apply a separate primer coat
These days you can buy paint and primer together, which is a terrific time saver. But if your walls aren’t in great shape, even after cleaning and patching, you will usually get a much better result with a separate primer coat. This step might not be 100% necessary on your walls, but taking the extra time to prime properly will guarantee the best possible outcome.
You can ask about the paint’s undertone at the store where you’re buying it. You can also use a color wheel to compare it to primary colors to get a sense of the undertones involved.
Combine multiple buckets of paint
Your windows can throw a wrench into your paint colors. This is because many windows have a very subtle green tint due to the presence of iron oxide in the glass. This isn’t noticeable in any way to the naked eye, as a rule, but it can cast a greenish tint on your paint that’s just strong enough to make it look inexplicably wrong in the daylight. Putting samples on the wall to judge the color is a great idea—but make sure you paint those samples in a spot where the light from your windows will hit them. Samples that look perfect in a more shadowed area may suddenly look weird when light hits it through the window.
Figure out the color temperature of your lights
You should also check the color rendering index (CRI) of your bulbs. This is a rating between 50 and 100 that indicates how accurate the color rendering of the bulb will be. A CRI of 90 to 100 will show your paint as accurately as possible, reducing the chances that it will look worse when the sun goes down.
Load your roller up
Finally, when actually painting, don’t be shy with your roller. When initially “loading” paint onto a dry cover, take your time and work paint deep into the nap. This can take a few minutes, so don’t rush—you want a nice, wet roller when you hit the wall. When painting, don’t roll until the roller is exhausted—reload frequently and keep the nap damp. Exhausting your roller will just leave streaks and faint spots that may or may not get covered by a second coat—and may or may not haunt you for years afterward.
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