I take a refreshing dip in the Atlantic, then order a £1.20 shakshuka (poached eggs in a spicy tomato sauce) on the seafront terrace of Le Mirage restaurant.
The village has some of the signature details found in other Moroccan tourist hotspots, without the crowds (Photo: Emily Morris)
Despite being neither “chill”, nor a surfer, I booked a stay ChillSurfer hostel on the strength of its reviews. It’s run by surf instructor and former gold medal BMX champion, Jawad Toumi, who grew up in the Atlas Mountains.
Guests share shakshuka served in a giant tagine, mushroom omelette, bread, olives, honey and amlou, the local runny peanut butter. I meet people aged from their early twenties to mid-fifties, from Germany, Denmark, Argentina, the UK. As we ask each other to pass the amlou and share our plans for the day, new friendships are formed. On two evenings, I go out for dinner with the group.
But lately, she’s seen more UK bookings, including from families visiting in the school holidays. Ruth puts this down to word getting out that there’s a calmer alternative to Taghazout, just along the coast.
Families will love the beach, as well as actibities such as sandboarding and camel rides Photo: Emily Morris)I hail a taxi (£5) to the hilltop Taghazout Skatepark, joining the hundreds who gather every evening to watch skateboarders performing tricks against fluorescent sunsets. With hip-hop playing, crowds cheering and Mr Vintish selling his wares, the atmosphere is like a festival.
Eating out is cheap in both Tamraght and Taghazout. At Casa Hukana, Tamraght, beautifully presented, tasty tapas dishes are £2.80 each. At Anwal, Taghazout, a colourful couscous main is £4, with meat options from around £5.50.
But construction is rife, and with the vast, empty land on the beachfront seeming ripe for more all-inclusive complexes, it feels like this is a place in flux. For now, as sober travel grows in popularity, some travellers tell me Tamraght’s lack of alcohol is part of the draw, while others simply appreciate a tranquil retreat after a hard day’s surfing.
Many tourists in the region visit Paradise Valley, an oasis in the High Atlas Mountains – but its popularity has taken its toll.
For £32, Jawad takes me and three of my fellow guests deeper into the mountains on an unforgettable day out to the unspoilt “Secret Valley”. He leads us past tall date palms, blossoming almond trees and waterfalls to a shack perched on pale rocks overlooking an aquamarine pool.
Tuesday’s bustling market seems more popular with local people than tourists. I stock up on bright spices and affordable ceramics to take back to chilly Manchester. It’s only been four days, but as I wander down the hill, passing dogs lazing in the shade of photogenic doorways and masses of bougainvillea, I feel strangely (and wonderfully) like I’ve been here for months.
There’s so much I didn’t have time to do, like horse-riding with Amazir Cheval and jewellery-making workshops at Brookolie – but I love it here so much I know I’ll be back. Maybe next time I’ll even give surfing a go.
Getting thereEasyJet has direct flights to Agadir from Bristol, Edinburgh, Glasgow, Gatwick, Luton and Manchester. Ryanair has direct flights to Agadir from Manchester, Bournemouth, Edinburgh, Birmingham and Stansted.
Staying therePrivate doubles (with shared bathroom) at ChillSurfer from £32 B&B, beds in dorms from £17 B&B, book direct or via HostelWorld. Home-cooked dinner, subject to demand, approx £7.50. Surf lessons £32 including instruction, 2 hours in the water, wetsuit and board hire and return transport to nearby beaches, depending on conditions. Yoga classes £11.50. All prices based on MAD to GBP conversion rates at the time of writing.
Moroccan Dirham is a closed currency and nearly everywhere in Tamraght accepts cash only. There are bureau de changes and ATMs in the arrivals hall at Agadir, and in Tamraght.
More informationvisitmorocco.com/en
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