Our group of visitors and crew belted out the lyrics (or made grunting noises as commanded for the local tunes) as our boat departed the deserted beach where we’d been swimming.
Pristine beaches are among the lures of French Polynesia (Photo: Getty)
Polynesia was first brought to my attention by Moana, the Disney film inspired by these islands. With a sequel released last December, I wanted to see whether it would live up to my fantasies.
I was glad of this while gorging on a breakfast of mango, avocado and homemade banana jam with Hiti and his wife, as they regaled me with stories of their lives (including hosting Team USA when the surfing competitions of the 2024 Paris Olympics took place outside their home).
Marianna Hunt had the waterfall to herself (Photo: Marianna Hunt)In some tourist destinations such pools would be packed with people and come with an entry fee. During our five-hour hike, we didn’t see a soul, or a ticket booth. The guided trip, including boat ride and a snack, cost around £62.90 (facebook.com/heeuriexplorer). In Hawaii, a full day’s hike typically costs north of £80.
The captivating country of art, Silk Road history and striking architecture
Read MoreGiven the time it takes to get to French Polynesia, many tourists stay for at least a week and visit three or more islands.
Nuku Hiva – capital of the Marquesas – felt like another world. Volcanic craters opened on to black sand shores, 100-metre-high waterfalls crashed into the sea, and semi-wild horses peered out of coconut forests.
There was a good price range of places to stay and eat. I tried out affordable guest houses (like Pension Temetiu Village, £89 a night) and the upmarket Hanakee Lodge (£223), where wooden bungalows overlook the sea.
Hanakee Lodge has accommodation that looks out to seaSinging traditional songs with Bryan and spotting children practising the warrior dances in school, I realised this was no mere show for tourists. The cultural pride perhaps comes from the fact it was once close to being obliterated.
Losing those traditions – this time to the Westernisation that mass tourism can bring – is not an option.
French Polynesia is well worth the jet lag (Photo: Marianna Hunt)As I prepared to head home, I balked at the thought of two back-to-back nine-hour flights. But in the 18th century, it took months to sail to French Polynesia from Europe – so I reckoned I could handle a bit of jet lag.
Getting thereMarianna Hunt was a guest of Tahiti Tourisme UK and Air Tahiti Nui.Fly to Faa’a International Airport on Tahiti, stopping at Los Angeles or Seattle en route, with Air Tahiti Nui, from Paris Charles de Gaulle from £1,890, including hold luggage and meals.
Flights from Tahiti to Nuku Hiva, with Air Tahiti, cost from around £400
Staying thereRooms at Guesthouse A Hi’o To Mou’a start from £70, including breakfast, ahiotomoua.com.Rooms at Hanakee Lodge, Hiva Oa start from £223, not including breakfast, en.hotelhanakee.com.
More informationtahititourisme.uk/airtahitinui.com/en
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